RUFFLY CROCHET SCARF

© Kemberlee, 2007
kals@fromcrooktohook.com

Note: This pattern can be used with any yarn and appropriate size hook.

Yarn used: Brown Sheep Handpaint Originals in English Garden colorway

Hook size: 4mm, US size G

Stitch note: dc in the UK is a sc in the US…insert hook into stitch, yo, draw through, yo, draw through both loops. This pattern uses UK terms

Design note: part of this pattern uses the back loop and part uses both loops. Read instructions carefully.

Directions:

Chain 173

Side One

Row 1 – 1dc into 3rd chain from hook, using back loop of chain, 1dc in each chain to end (170 stitches)

Row 2 – *chain 5, skip 4dc, slip stitch into 5th dc*, using both loops, repeat to end. Ch7, ss into end stitch to create a loop. Turn (34 spaces and one end loop)

Row 3 – 8dc in loop, 8dc into each 5dc space to end, using both loops.

Side Two

Repeat Rows 2 and 3

Finishing:

Ch1 then 1dc into 1st stitch, repeat twice. Ch4, ss into 4th dc. Ch1 then 1dc into next stitch, repeat to next loop. On the 4th dc of loop, ch4 then ss into the same stitch. Ch1 then 1dc into the next stitch and repeat to end. Fasten off.

Option: Prior to starting, string 170 contrasting beads. When creating the foundation chain, be sure the beads rest on the back hump of the stitch. Follow the directions above and you will have a row of beads running through the heart of the scarf, which peak through the ruffles.

CROCHET PINWHEEL

© Kemberlee, 2007 kals@fromcrooktohook.com Note: This pattern can be used with any yarn and appropriate size hook Look carefully at the directions and you will see a pattern developing…increase one chain stitch every 10 rows, and increase one dc every section on every row. All repeats are done 6 times to build your 6 pinwheel sections. You can continue this method as long as you wish. Eventually the pinwheel pattern will begin to circle the work to become a spiral

Directions:

Chain 4, slip stitch into first chain to form ring

Ch5, 1dc into ring, 6 times – 6 loops on the ring

Ch3, 1dc into first loop, 6 times

Note: Place a marker on the first 3ch open space and start counting rows from here. This pattern is worked in a spiral. When you come to the last row be sure all space sections have the same number of chain rows.

Ch3, 2dc into first space, 1 dc into first stitch, 6 times

Ch3, 2dc into first space, 2 dc into first stitch, 6 times

Ch3, 2dc into first space, 3 dc into first stitch, 6 times

Ch3, 2dc into first space, 4 dc into first stitch, 6 times

Ch3, 2dc into first space, 5 dc into first stitch, 6 times

Ch3, 2dc into first space, 6 dc into first stitch, 6 times

Ch3, 2dc into first space, 7 dc into first stitch, 6 times

Ch3, 2dc into first space, 8 dc into first stitch, 6 times

Ch3, 2dc into first space, 9 dc into first stitch, 6 times

Ch3, 2dc into first space, 10 dc into first stitch, 6 times

- increase row

Ch4, 2dc into first space, 12 dc into first stitch, 6 times

Ch4, 2dc into first space, 13 dc into first stitch, 6 times

Ch4, 2dc into first space, 14 dc into first stitch, 6 times

Ch4, 2dc into first space, 15 dc into first stitch, 6 times

Ch4, 2dc into first space, 16 dc into first stitch, 6 times

Ch4, 2dc into first space, 17 dc into first stitch, 6 times

Ch4, 2dc into first space, 18 dc into first stitch, 6 times

Ch4, 2dc into first space, 19 dc into first stitch, 6 times

Ch4, 2dc into first space, 20 dc into first stitch, 6 times

- increase row

Ch5, 2dc into first space, 21 dc into first stitch, 6 times

Ch5, 2dc into first space, 22 dc into first stitch, 6 times

Ch5, 2dc into first space, 23 dc into first stitch, 6 times

Note: You can continue this method as long as you wish. Eventually the pinwheel pattern will begin circling the work to become a spiral. When you come to the last row be sure all space sections have the same number of chain rows.

If this is to be part of a larger item, make one or two circles around the pinwheel in dc to strengthen the pinwheel before continuing your item.

Sample of how to use the spiral.
Also, see my Ravelry page for more information on this tote.

KEMBERLEE'S CROCHETED SOCKS

© Kemberlee, 2007
kals@fromcrooktohook.com

NOTE: This sock is designed for a size 8-1/2 foot

MATERIALS

* Hook --3mm;US D/3; UK11
* Markers -- 4 (if you don't have purpose made markers, use safety pins, contrasting yarn or curtain hooks)
* #3 light worsted DK (doubleknit) (yarn standards, http://www.yarnstandards.com/weight.html)
* Needle -- for weaving in loose ends

GAUGE – 5 stitches = 1 inch / 5 rows = 1 inch ... For a traditional 4 inch swatch use 20 stitches and 20 rows, which will give you 400 stitches altogether

STITCH NOTES

* DC = double crochet, or single crochet in the US
* SS = slip stitch
* Work cuff with back loop only; the last stitch on each row is worked with both front and back loops.

Note: Work the rest of the sock with both front and back loops unless otherwise stated.

Lesson One – The Cuff

Note: Use back loop only except for the last stitch which is made with both loops.

Chain 16

Row 1: 1 dc in 2nd chain from hook, dc next 13 stitches, 1 dc in both front and back loops of last stitch, turn (15 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, dc 14 stitches in back loops only, 1 dc in both front and back loops of last stitch, turn (15 sts)

Rows 3-48: Repeat row 2 to last row, making 24 ribs. Beginning yarn end loop end will be on the same side of cuff, as shown.

Join edges with dc, weaving in beginning yarn edge as you work.

Note: Cuff seam will have created an extra rib on sock, 25 ribs/50 rows.

Lesson Two – The Ankle, Heel Opening and Foot

Note: Use both loops only from here on out unless otherwise stated.
Note: Do not join rounds, but work in a continual spiral to the end.

ANKLE

Row 1: Ch 1, dc in each rib, making one full circle around the cuff (50 sts)

Row 2-8: Continue dc until you have 8 rows; count from the back seam on cuff. Check sts to be sure you have 50, ending at cuff seam, which is where you started, as shown.

HEEL OPENING

Note: Use cuff seam as marker, or place a regular marker along the cuff seam
Note: Occasionally try on the sock to be sure it fits. You can increase or decrease stitches on the chain if you find the sock too tight or big.

Loosely ss 10 sts and place marker at this stitch, dc 30 and place marker at the next st. Ch 20 and connect at first st after first marker (50 sts).

Note: Be sure chain is smooth and straight before you attach. A twisted chain can’t be repaired later when you need to fill in the heel.
FOOT

Continue dc until the foot section measures 5 inches long from the top of heel opening, or until it comes just to the top of the ball of foot. End this section here. Lay the sock flat and center the heel. Place a marker on each side of the top of the sock, as shown.

Note: If you are switching colors, do it now. Snip yarn and attach new color before starting the toe.
Lesson Three – The Toe and Heel

TOE

Beginning with the left marker, dec1dc after marker, dc to next marker. *Dec1dc before marker, dec1cd after marker (dec2dc at each marker), dc to next marker. Rep from * until opening is 1 inch wide/5 sts on each side.

Measure about 4 inches of yarn and snip. Turn sock inside out and ss the opening closed. Fasten off and weave in yarn end.

Note: If you’ve used two colors as I have here, be sure to weave yarn ends into their same color.
HEEL

Note: Move markers to extreme corners and start with toe facing up.

Attach yarn at right marker. Dec1dc, dc to next stitch. Work like toe. Dec2dc at each marker, dc between markers, until opening is 1 inch wide/5 sts on each side.
Measure about 4 inches of yarn and snip. Turn sock inside out and ss the opening closed. Fasten off and weave in yarn end.

Note: If you’ve used two colors as I have here, be sure to weave yarn ends into their same color.

Turn the sock right side out and…

Voila! One Sock
(now make the other one!)

If you use a single color for the sock, you can embellish the top of the cuff with a novelty yarn to make the sock more festive, or use a simple picot.

You can also increase the length of the ankle section if you like a longer sock, remembering to check the cuff size to be sure it fits correctly. If you like a longer ankle section and smaller cuff, just reduce the number of stitches to make the cuff…instead of 15, try 10 or even 5. This pattern is very flexible, and once you get used to the basic pattern you’ll see how easily it is to customize.

HAPPY SOCK-MAKING!!